Archives for May 2016

Pancetta part two – Journey with Chef ‘D’

Pancetta

The basic recipe

 INGREDIENTS 5kg pork belly
100g black peppercorns whole
40g Juniper berries
100g garlic whole
30 bay leaves
20g thyme fresh
30g sage fresh
1kg salt coarse
1kg sugar granulated white

METHOD
Toast peppercorns and juniper berries
Combine the toasted peppercorns and juniper berries with the herbs and garlic.
Pulse in a blender until coarse and combine with the salt and sugar.
Rub the cure mixture all over the pork belly.
Place in a tray and cover with a cheese cloth.
Allow to cure for 10 days. Gently remove the cure do not wash just rub off.
Damp the belly with a kitchen towel until relatively dry.
Place on a wire rack and allow to sit in the fridge for 24hrs until it dries out completely.
Portion the belly into 2 smaller pieces, tightly wrap the belly individually in cheese cloth.
Truss with butchers string. Hang for 6-8 weeks

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Finding Burger Part 9 – “Hunger is good discipline.”

INDIA RELISH WITH BURGER

INDIA RELISH WITH BURGER

I will be patient and experiment until we get this right. So after the last episode in making meatballs and using MSG. The words of my good friend Russel continuous to haunt me, “a true burger can only be judged if it has a bun(no sesame), well made patty, some lettuce and tomato with pickles served on the side” You see he is a bit of a purist when it comes to burgers. I understand his point, but for me there is more. Pickle and chutney needs form part of the layers of goodness. In my own personal case some chili will not hurt. It is also important to note that making it to complicated does mean that more variables are at stake.

In the next experiment we have broken down from the Beast from Ernest Hemmingway, as India Relish was used we experimented with a couple of different recipes found. Some had thickening agents others relied on the onion and tomato to aid with the thickening. All of the recipes that were made tasted similar, we enjoyed the spice elements, cinnamon, clove and mustard.

We made a burger replacing the tomato chutney and cucumber pickle with a combo recipe making our own India Relish. It tasted great on its own, but how would it taste on the Burger?

We cook the burger to perfection an omit the pickles as well as the chutney. With the first bite, some similarities….it does not taste that different from our own burger. As the Relish contains cucumber and tomato, sugar and vinegar, it was almost the same. On the second bite perhaps the vinegar taste is slightly over powering. But it is still damn good.

Sven will now start working a recipe based on the India Relish, using tomato, peppers, cucumber with the addition of brinjal.

Note to self: go hungry until after burger is tastings.

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Pancetta part one – Journey with Chef ‘D’

Pancetta 2

Pancetta

At the same time we received the cheeks we also received some beautiful pork belly. Eight weeks later we are in heaven, what beauties, both the smoked rolled as well as the flat pancetta will be great additions to the chef’s table experience.

But why experiment with pancetta? After all it is readily available almost anywhere. I think part is curiosity, part education, part understanding true quality. True quality in this art form can only be achieved with time. Often the products found on the shelf has not been made with the same care and the same time. The journey truly taught us that the difference is huge. We take for granted, the importance of time on true quality. Everything we want must happen quickly. This slow food will not succumb to the trap of time.

As we are doing both a rolled (arrotolata) as well as a flat (stesa) it gives us space to explore a multitude of potential recipes or just plain with bruschetta.

 

 

 

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Finding Burger Part 8 – It is not inside it is on top!

EH BURGER

Wild West

 I do not think we will truly be happy, we can always find something in our burger that can be better. The last couple of months we have left the beast to be, not changing anything. It has not been because we have become complacent. It is more about the repeat experience, the set expectation. We want guest to return and have the same experience with every mouthful. So now we keep the experiments to the kitchen. This way I can eat a lot more burgers.

The only big change has been with the beef, as we try and stay true with grass fed beef, only this time we are adding Dexter, a smaller breed of cattle from Ireland. Nicole from Terra Madre brought us a sample, at first I was very sceptical as it was very lean. The colour dark and it reminded me of venison. In addition to trying different breeds we are also investigating adding a third cut to the mix, as the chuck and brisket are becoming increasingly popular in demand and in price. We have had some mixed results with the third and fourth additions. This might sound trivial, but in the end it does make difference to the end product, the texture, the mouth feel and the way it cooks.

As for the price of beef, I believe we will be in for a huge surprise later this year. The margins will get smaller and tighter. To make a good burger that one prides on self in is not a cheap trick, good quality ingredients come at a premium. The good thing about us is that we will not compromise.

I have been mulling with a new idea for some time now, after reading the article in SAVEUR- Magazine(July 2015), I saw a beautiful beast displayed on page 17, Ernest Hemingways wild-west burger. Many have written about this legendary recipe, it almost reminds me of a frikadelle. I wanted to understand it, a far cry from the burger I have been trying to perfect. I was surprised at the amount of ingredients in the patty, from India Relish to apple, cheese, MSG, celery salt to name a few. It made me think though, perhaps the answer lies in these individual seasonings and flavourings that can be used to enhance the bling.

As it is we are looking for the right pickle/chutney, the right balance of sweet, sour and spice so we are recreating our own India Relish to understand the balance, if my thought process is correct it could open the door to our chutney and pickles we are using. Then the MSG in the Mei Yen Powder, this is something I will need to look at not because of the MSG, but rather the umami it brings together. But where? Perhaps we could recreate a basting with some much umami it will drive us to edge of insanity.

Next spice used was called Beau Monde Seasoning this would also add to the more umami and savoury, unfortunately not available anywhere. We made our own, made up of celery, onion and salt with some sweetness. Other ingredients used in making the patty was ham, wine, cheddar, capers, apple, sage, garlic, egg, carrot and tomato. Sounds more like a drunk chef after a long day coming home very hungry and then squashing the pantry together as if a balanced meal between two buns was being created.

I want to create a burger based on the wild west beast but with all the ingredients stacked on top and not as part of the patty. I would probably not be the first to think of this, but we are still going to stack it up.

So how does it taste? Honestly….I do not know, slightly confusing. I like the balance of the sweet, sour and savoury all the flavours were amplified. If I was making a meatball I would most likely say it was great. As a semi purist I will stick to the pure beef patty.

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Kedgeree

kedgeree

Kedgeree with trout

Serves – Depends on how hungry or hungover you are or enough for 4
No two recipes are the same. Loosely based on left-over cooked rice, spices, smoked fish and boiled eggs. Quick to make, great cure for a hangover and great for breakfast. Most recipes call for smoked haddock, as we do not get great haddock this side of the world we lightly smoked some of the tail end pieces of trout.

Ingredients

3 large eggs
600g Lightly smoked trout
400g cooked basmati rice
20g butter
1 tbsp grated ginger
1 clove garlic
1-2 tbsp curry powder (depends on strength
10 curry leaves (fresh if possible)
1 tbsp mustard seeds
2 chopped tomatoes
1 hand full fresh coriander , chopped
Juice from one lemon
125g plain yoghurt

Method

Boil eggs for 7 -8 minutes and chill in ice water.
Season trout with a little curry and grill fish with a little oil, when almost cooked remove a set aside.
Place butter in sauce pan with onion, garlic, leaves and ginger, cook gently add mustard seeds then curry powder, releasing all the aromas add tomatoes with lemon juice.
Add Rice and continue to cook with lid so it can steam a little at the same time.
Add one grated egg, flaked fish – gently heat through. Top with half chopped coriander and halved eggs .
Add other half coriander into yoghurt.
Serve with limes, crisp fried onions, sliced fresh chillies and yoghurt

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