Burger

Finding burger part 12! What is the beef!

We have used Afrikaner, Simmentaler, Dexter, Angus and Boran in all cases the meat was excellent but very different. We have seen how our choices have had impact on the final product. What happens when the animal is put through stress and what it does to the meat, but more importantly how much does the terroir play a part?
Previously I had disagreed on the topic, I did not want to listen to a very good friend. But after experimenting and tasting meat for the burger repeatedly month after month it has become very clear. As the taste of the meat is greatly dependant on the grass and the feed, the PH of the meat changes accordingly. As the seasons change so does the feed. In many cases it is impossible to have a constant supply of feed throughout winter. The animals need a supplement in the dry months. This is a reality. What is the taste of the grass? Sweet or sour?
Very few farms have the luxury of great feed throughout the year. Very few farms can claim 100% free range, grass fed and organic beef.
As we will not compromise we will stay true, we will remain transparent with every delivery, every patty every bite. Currently we are using Simmentaler from Oak Valley with an abundance of rye grass which is supplemented with oat hay and apple pomace.
These animals are pasture-reared, free-range, hormone and antibiotic free.
Perhaps the chutney in the burger can have a little bit of apple to bring it all together.
It is hard to choose where my favourite beef comes from.

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Finding burger part 11 – When will we learn?

Originally I wanted go through beef choices and how it shapes our decisions, but after my holiday I decided to discuss bad burger choices.
The burger is sacred and can never be thought of or regarded as an afterthought, never!
What is wrong with people, chefs and restauranteurs? No…. rather what is wrong with me? Why do I insist in ordering a burger when, deep down I know I am setting myself up for disappointment. You just know it, that gut feeling that never gets it wrong.
Recently while we were in Overberg district, I was slightly upset, ticked off more like it. A restaurant I wanted to visit, was closed and were on their holiday just as I was. No reason to be upset, but I was. So we scanned through a list of local places to eat and came across one. As I always enjoy burger, more than I should, the opportunity in Stanford almost put me off burgers for life.
The support act was the highlight (chips). The rest was downhill and it came down to one thing only.
The main star was disappointing. How hard is it? You buy the meat, you mince it, season it, cook it and enjoy it.
Hiding behind poor ingredients, disguising the essence, the meat is just a big no! How can people add seasoning beyond the point of recognising that it is beef, adding egg and binders to try and fix the bad quality is just so wrong on so many levels.
Or am I being over critical.
I am still upset, this would never have happened if all my plans worked out!

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Finding Burger part 10 – Is it all about baste?

Burger part 10

It’s all about the baste

It is essential to have a little bit of smoke on the beef patty when grilling, this is why it is essential to use a charcoal grill with open flames, the juices and fat run off onto the exposed coals causing puffs of smoke that is essential in creating a taste profile that is true. So, is it all about baste? Or can we leave it off completely? In the past we have always added a little basting. Our thinking was based on trying add an extra dimension and the rest based on nostalgia of when we were young and we frequented our favourite burger shop. What we were ultimately after was an umami burst to lift everything. What we ended up with, was a dirty grill!

We found that the basting we used, almost like a monkey gland sauce would burn almost caramelise slightly which in its own is pleasant…..but to sweet.

We have always said that we do not garnish imperfection, putting a basting on the patty is in a way hiding perfection. We need to steer clear of adding sugar, it messes with the brain. The tomato chutney is sweet, caramelised onion is sweet and so is the basting.

So just like that, it was gone. But it has still left a void. So now Sven is working on a more savoury approach juts short of emptying a bottle of soya over the burger. Perhaps the answer lies with caramelised onions.

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Finding Burger Part 9 – “Hunger is good discipline.”

INDIA RELISH WITH BURGER

INDIA RELISH WITH BURGER

I will be patient and experiment until we get this right. So after the last episode in making meatballs and using MSG. The words of my good friend Russel continuous to haunt me, “a true burger can only be judged if it has a bun(no sesame), well made patty, some lettuce and tomato with pickles served on the side” You see he is a bit of a purist when it comes to burgers. I understand his point, but for me there is more. Pickle and chutney needs form part of the layers of goodness. In my own personal case some chili will not hurt. It is also important to note that making it to complicated does mean that more variables are at stake.

In the next experiment we have broken down from the Beast from Ernest Hemmingway, as India Relish was used we experimented with a couple of different recipes found. Some had thickening agents others relied on the onion and tomato to aid with the thickening. All of the recipes that were made tasted similar, we enjoyed the spice elements, cinnamon, clove and mustard.

We made a burger replacing the tomato chutney and cucumber pickle with a combo recipe making our own India Relish. It tasted great on its own, but how would it taste on the Burger?

We cook the burger to perfection an omit the pickles as well as the chutney. With the first bite, some similarities….it does not taste that different from our own burger. As the Relish contains cucumber and tomato, sugar and vinegar, it was almost the same. On the second bite perhaps the vinegar taste is slightly over powering. But it is still damn good.

Sven will now start working a recipe based on the India Relish, using tomato, peppers, cucumber with the addition of brinjal.

Note to self: go hungry until after burger is tastings.

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Finding Burger Part 8 – It is not inside it is on top!

EH BURGER

Wild West

 I do not think we will truly be happy, we can always find something in our burger that can be better. The last couple of months we have left the beast to be, not changing anything. It has not been because we have become complacent. It is more about the repeat experience, the set expectation. We want guest to return and have the same experience with every mouthful. So now we keep the experiments to the kitchen. This way I can eat a lot more burgers.

The only big change has been with the beef, as we try and stay true with grass fed beef, only this time we are adding Dexter, a smaller breed of cattle from Ireland. Nicole from Terra Madre brought us a sample, at first I was very sceptical as it was very lean. The colour dark and it reminded me of venison. In addition to trying different breeds we are also investigating adding a third cut to the mix, as the chuck and brisket are becoming increasingly popular in demand and in price. We have had some mixed results with the third and fourth additions. This might sound trivial, but in the end it does make difference to the end product, the texture, the mouth feel and the way it cooks.

As for the price of beef, I believe we will be in for a huge surprise later this year. The margins will get smaller and tighter. To make a good burger that one prides on self in is not a cheap trick, good quality ingredients come at a premium. The good thing about us is that we will not compromise.

I have been mulling with a new idea for some time now, after reading the article in SAVEUR- Magazine(July 2015), I saw a beautiful beast displayed on page 17, Ernest Hemingways wild-west burger. Many have written about this legendary recipe, it almost reminds me of a frikadelle. I wanted to understand it, a far cry from the burger I have been trying to perfect. I was surprised at the amount of ingredients in the patty, from India Relish to apple, cheese, MSG, celery salt to name a few. It made me think though, perhaps the answer lies in these individual seasonings and flavourings that can be used to enhance the bling.

As it is we are looking for the right pickle/chutney, the right balance of sweet, sour and spice so we are recreating our own India Relish to understand the balance, if my thought process is correct it could open the door to our chutney and pickles we are using. Then the MSG in the Mei Yen Powder, this is something I will need to look at not because of the MSG, but rather the umami it brings together. But where? Perhaps we could recreate a basting with some much umami it will drive us to edge of insanity.

Next spice used was called Beau Monde Seasoning this would also add to the more umami and savoury, unfortunately not available anywhere. We made our own, made up of celery, onion and salt with some sweetness. Other ingredients used in making the patty was ham, wine, cheddar, capers, apple, sage, garlic, egg, carrot and tomato. Sounds more like a drunk chef after a long day coming home very hungry and then squashing the pantry together as if a balanced meal between two buns was being created.

I want to create a burger based on the wild west beast but with all the ingredients stacked on top and not as part of the patty. I would probably not be the first to think of this, but we are still going to stack it up.

So how does it taste? Honestly….I do not know, slightly confusing. I like the balance of the sweet, sour and savoury all the flavours were amplified. If I was making a meatball I would most likely say it was great. As a semi purist I will stick to the pure beef patty.

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Finding Burger Heaven Part 7 – & now for something completely different

Seafood burger

Image credit – Crush online Magazine

Up to now I have only focused on beef burgers, currently I am working on my personal top 10 burgers, seeing that I am eating so many. But while this is happening I decided to include something different. I did this recipe with Crush online last year.

A couple of years ago I was asked to come up with a fish cake recipe, I kind of forgot about it at the time, until I had to present my dish, so as one does, at the last minute we scrambled through our mise en place and just added things as we went along. (see we make it sound easy) problem is, that when it came to putting the recipe on paper it meant that it was almost the whole mise en place list.

Everyone loved it, it was a hit! This recipe for the actual burger patty is loosely based on that original recipe. The influence is a little all over, but it works. All sub recipes not included.

INGREDIENTS

60-80g Japanese mayonnaise
80g fresh bean sprout and spring onion salad
4 fish burgers (recipe below)
80g kimchi
30g dressed mustard leaves
80g avocado mashed with lime and salt
4 steamed buns

sriracha sauce as needed

METHOD

Steam buns and cut in half
At base decorate with avocado, followed by mustard leaves
Place fish burger on top of leaves followed by kimchi, sprout salad and mayonnaise

SEAFOOD BURGER PATTY (Makes 4x160g fish burgers)

140g raw tuna cut into pieces
140g raw salmon
200g raw prawn meat
80g cooked crab meat
2 egg whites
Salt
Pepper
1 tsp chopped coriander root
1 tsp chopped garlic
1 tsp chopped ginger
1 tsp chopped lemon grass
1 tsp fresh chopped coriander
1 tsp chopped chilli
Few drops fish sauce (to taste)
Few drop sesame oil
¼ tsp lime zest
½ tsp lime juice
50g roasted butternut cubes
10g rough chopped spring onion

METHOD

Once again keep the mixture as cold as possible at all times
In blender blitz raw fish or chop roughly by hand and add all spices, do not blend to a fine paste, must be alike a rough mince
Add fish sauce to taste
Add sesame oil to taste, add lime juice
Add roasted butternut and spring onions
Check seasoning
Split the mix into 4 and shape into round cakes approximately 8-9cm wide
Pan fry until just cooked, be gentle when turning

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Finding Burger Heaven (part 6)

Choices!

Previously I made mention that we were looking at changing the tomato chutney to brinjal chutney. So yesterday was the perfect opportunity. Dax Villanueva aka Relax with Dax was in our kitchen with Food24 documenting how we make our burger, as we are celebrating not only eating burgers for breakfast but for World Burger Day!

The brinjal chutney was great with hints of smokiness with so much umami characteristics, it lifted the burger taste to a new level. Sweet, sour, savoury, umami layers and layers. It was also the first time we made our burger with Afrikaner Cattle from Vryberg area from the Cloete brothers.

Up to now it was important for us to use only 100% grass fed beef and we have been spoilt for choice. At first it seemed that we were going to have a problem with the supply as we had a momentary lapse during the supply last year. We have used beef from Green Fields in Natal, Boran cattle from Brenaissance and Farmer Angus Beef and not to forget great people like Mpumi, Andy Fenner, Harman and Ryan Boone who have all been instrumental with sourcing right animal for our search.

At one stage we were even re-writing the recipe to bring in a third cut, it just made things worse. Not from a taste point, but rather from a choice point of view.

All the beef tasted was different, distinctly different. Having a recent conversation with Angus he once again highlighted the importance of terroir. This was very evident if you compared all the meat tasted from Natal to the Western Cape and further up north. The meat cannot be ignored, we have to make the right choice, it is after all the most important part.

How sweet is the grass?

View the feature on Food 24:

And the interview with Dax Villanueva:

Follow my journey in Finding Burger Heaven:

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 5

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 4

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 3

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 2

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 1

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Finding Burger (part 5)

Cheese 1

Part 5

Criticism!

I like progress, part of progress comes because of feedback, some fantastic and some not so great. One guest mentioned that the meat was tasteless and lacked seasoning….this was a concern which made us run back to the production line. But the night before a guest from Dubai ordered just the patty, RARE! AND he loved it, so much so that he returned the next night again for the same. This man only enjoyed the meat no frills no fuss, only the meat. When he called me over he just asked, “chef, what is your favourite wine?” … it is on nights like this that we know why we do what we do

But with every little bit of feedback we listen we look we taste and we are critical…..we have to be. It was at this stage that we decided that we still had to look at the patty again, even if it was an isolated incident, we have to be true. It was actually a good thing that we had a look, because it made us realise that we had to change the salt. The salt needed to change and come from a reputable source, free from any additives: enter, Kalahari salt. Step one complete.

It has been over a long time that my burger thoughts have been wondering, we have been working on the patty, more salt less salt, more fat less fat. Quietly chipping away, checking and tasting and grilling and tasting. It is still not perfect.

On Saturday night we enjoyed the sum of all the parts. I had more questions, could I taste the cheese, but really identify it, did it really make a difference. Did the cheese enhance the overall experience? …I was more confused. Could I not just enjoy the burger? …. but, leave the cheese and immediately you know about it! Ok so the cheese stays.

What about the chutney? We have been working on a chutney for some weeks now as I am not convinced that the tomato chutney is working, I want something that will make me sit up and think when I take a bite. Over the years we have made chutney with almost any ingredient left standing about, always with mixed results. But the one thing that always makes a great chutney is brinjal, it just brings together the sweet, the bitter the sour and the spice all into the right consistency. More about this later.

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 4

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 3

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 2

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Finding burger heaven! (Part 4)

BurgerBling!

Layers and layers of goodness is what we wanted, this is where it becomes critical. As the patty is simple, the rest will make it superb! What sauces, what cheese, sesame or no sesame, gherkins, mayo, chutney, basting, what lettuce?

Lets start with the cheese should it be melted or not? This is something we are still working on as we have some conflict in the kitchen as to what it should be, personally it must just start to melt.  The cheese must be real cheese and it must have loads of flavour. So we have selected a Healeys cheddar, 6 months. Every now and then we have something a little younger.
Then the fresh salad stuff a burger just does not taste good without it, helps hide the guilt, tomato slices and crispy iceberg lettuce is a must. We are still toiling with the idea of adding a mayonnaise.

Then the burger basting, the recipe we use is slightly sweet, with a good sour and spice component. It is essential that the basting is used while the burger is being flame grilled. Something about smokey basting sauces on a burger.

For the chutney we use a tomato, once again with some sweet and sour spice notes. I suppose it is not essential to have both a basting and a chutney. But for us it is part of the whole experience and layers of flavours.
What about the pickles? We make our own pickled cucumber, initially we pickled the cucumber whole, but more recently we slice cucumber and lightly salt them before it goes into the vinegar solution.

Lastly caramalised fried onions, this is a must and there is no substitute. Sliced onions slowly fried until golden and caramelised.

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 3

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 2

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 1

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Finding burger heaven! (part 3)

Mixing Burgers

Enter chuck and brisket!

It is about temperature! That was the secret, not the egg or the seasoning or the binding. Temperature! When we used to make pates and terrines we had one important rule in the process. Keep the equipment and the product as cold as possible. You don’t want to start cooking the protein during the mincing process.
So the meat was cut into small pieces, seasoned and placed in the freezer until really cold, not frozen. Success! So now we were left with mustard, parsley, salt and pepper. It was amazing!

Beautiful beef without the makeup packed with real flavour. (more about beef and suppliers on another day)

I was happy and we were producing up to 40kg of burgers a week, which does not sound like a lot, this is only one of the many items on the menu so yes it is great. We were selling close to 30 – 40 burgers a day. The only other real competitor on the menu is the club sandwich (nightmare for most of our trainees working the sandwich section)
Our success was short lived as the mustard acted as a preservative keeping the colour of the meat pink during the cooking process. We only picked this up if the patty stood for longer than two days, when made daily we never noticed the change.

Now you try and convince a guest who has ordered a dead burger that the burger is dead when it is still pink on the inside. Frustration!

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 2

Finding Burger Heaven – Part 1

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