Ingredients

Aioli Three Ways

Garlic

Garlic, gift from the Gods

Aioli is simply an emulsion, similar to a mayonnaise made up of garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and egg yolks. Recipes may differ from one to the next with the amount of garlic used. Some recipes may include mustard or part vegetable oil, even bread.
In some similar sauces egg is omitted as in the Catalan Allioli using only a pestle and mortar with only garlic and olive oil made slowly drop by drop. Another similar sauce called skordalia is made with potato, olive oil, garlic and vinegar.
Previously I featured aioli with a picture of Le grand Aioli featuring boiled or steamed fish, egg, potatoes and vegetables all prepared in the simplest manner served warm or at room temperature with lots of aioli.
So this time I received a sample of some garlic from a supplier growing 15 varietals, so we were wondering what garlic is the best for an aioli? Up to now we have always been at the mercy of the supplier, they give us what they have. Choosing a varietal has never really been an option.
I have been aware in limited experience of a Softneck (silverskin and artichoke), hardneck (racambole, porcelain and purple stripe) and the very large garlic, elephant garlic.

I was given four different garlic cloves each very different, Tuscan a Turban variety from Italy with a medium strength with large and fat cloves. Second one a Persian Star, Purple stripe variety from Uzbekistan a mild but spicy garlic
Third a Purple Glazer – Glazed purple stripe variety from Georgia a strong long lasting flavour.
Fourth, Rose Lautrec Creole variety from France Sweet and subtle.

I personally do not like a garlic that is to spicy in aioli, preferring a mild to sweet garlic.

I have added two more recipes to the blog, one using no egg and one that is great for vegans
The milk emulsion was introduced years ago by very good friend of mine, at the time I did not believe him. But admittedly a high speed blender does make it possible.
Milk emulsion (egg free milk garlic emulsion)
This is so easy so quick, milk, garlic, lemon, olive oil and yes a stick blender.

1/3 cup milk
1 tbsp lemon juice (assists with the thickness)
little zest
2 garlic cloves
dijon mustard optional
salt and pepper to taste
125 ml vegetable oil
75 ml olive oil
in a deep measuring jug add milk, garlic, lemon and mustard, with a stick blender start off slowly and increase speed, when everything is combined add oily slowly, adjust seasoning.
For a milder aioli use mashed roasted garlic.

Vegan Nut Aioli
100g cashew cheese
20g pine nuts soaked
8 small garlic cloves roasted and skinned
20m lemon juice
1/8 tsp fine rind
Salt
White pepper
2 tsp mustard dijon
50ml olive oil

Combine all ingredients, place in blender until creamy.
Serve

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CURRIED DUCK EGG

Curried Duck Egg

Curried Duck Egg

We have always featured egg in some form or the other, it is after all the perfect meal. Recently I discovered a wonderful new supplier (Feed Me Free Range Products) situated just below Sir Lowry’s Pass with beautiful chickens, ducks and goose lying in the fields basking in the sun. Lou passed on some duck eggs to try, so I could not resist one of my favourites.

As curry and egg belong together, we decided to cook the duck egg at a low temperature, 63.3 C for one hour, at the base we placed a lentil dhall. Accompanied by a sweet and sour curry sauce, mango atchar, poppadoms and charred potatoes.

Photo credit – www.crushmag-online.com 

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Mackerel with wilted baby gem and a charred potato dressing

Crush Rudi14

Credit – Crush Online

Mackerel with wilted baby gem and a charred potato dressing

Fish choices have become a big challenge, as we are limited with choices. We try and buy responsible where possible. In many parts of the world mackerel has been fished beyond sustainable levels. We are still fortunate that we have access to mackerel for now. With an oily flesh, rich in omega-3 it make a great health choice as well as being great to cook on the open fire.

Yield: 4 people

INGREDIENTS

2 whole mackerel, gutted and cleaned
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp course salt
2 large red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
2 small garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tsp apricots jam
Sprigs thyme
4tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp zest

2 heads baby gem lettuce washed
2 medium potato
120 ml olive oil
60ml lemon juice
½ tsp lemon zest
4 garlic cloves roasted
Salt as needed

METHOD

Score mackerel on each side

Light fire
While the fire is working, place potato straight into fire and cook until soft, remove and allow to cool slightly.
Place 4 garlic cloves in foil with some olive oil and salt and roast close to the fire until soft, remove and mash roughly, combine with salt pepper and olive oil
Remove potatoes, cut in half and scoop out warm soft potato into a bowl, put aside.

Combine all marinade and basting ingredients.
Baste fish lightly place on grill.
Cook for about 5 minutes a side, check for doneness.
Remove, spoon remaining marinade over mackerel. Leave some basting for when the fish is finished.
While it is resting place lettuce on grill. Wilt on open fire edges will burn slightly.
Combine with lightly crushed potatoes, roasted garlic, lemon, olive oil and lemon juice

Serve.

If you do not have a fire cook fish under the grill.

Time the fish takes to cook will be determined by the size and thickness.

The majority of our fish comes of a green list with a small percentage coming of the orange list set up by SASSI as a guideline to assist us in making correct choices. Between customer demands, supply, the weather and the green list we are sometimes left with small amount to choose from. Yes we do make mistakes with the odd fish coming from the wrong side of the list.

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Guanciale part five – Bucatini all’Amatriciana

Ingredients

The ingredients

Here we go again, so many variations, so many so called original recipes each with a very viable true original stories. But on this one I am going to stick to just tomato, guanciale and pecorino …I might consider adding wine and olive oil. This sauce is supposed to be simple, with a peasant heritage originating from the town of Amatrice. The ingredients used in the sauce is a reflection of what was available in the area. In some areas it is prepared without the addition of tomato, but it is the tomato sauce that makes it special. If you cannot get bucatini (thick spaghetti with a hole running through the centre get spaghetti.

It must be noted that in some recipes garlic and onion is added, this distracts and disguises the tomato flavour. The addition of a little black pepper needs to be added while some believe it is a little chili instead that should be added.

INGREDIENTS
20ml extra-virgin olive oil
150g guanciale, cut into cubes
60ml white wine
425g whole peeled tomatoes crushed,
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
400g dried bucatini pasta
40g grated Pecorino
40g Pecorino shaved or grated for serving

METHOD
Heat the olive oil over medium heat and add guanciale, until lightly browned.
Add wine and cook until almost evaporated and pan deglazed
Add tomatoes and bring to a simmer leave the seeds, I like to add a little water or stock to help the sauce along.
Season with salt and fresh ground black pepper, add a little extra to give a bite.
Boil pasta in salted water until just short of al dente, remove and put into sauce with about 50 ml of pasta liquid.
Continue to cook in sauce until al dente, the sauce would have thickened slightly. Remove and add cheese.

Season and serve with extra cheese.

Pasta

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

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Chestnuts

IMG_9855

Ross the bearded man

 

and he is back, taking a break from climbing mountains. Last time we saw Ross was when he brought us porcini, this time beautiful chestnuts. With autumn in full swing the season just starting, they will feature all over for the next two months, but the best is still toasted over an moderate open fire or roasted. These sweet Spanish chestnuts have a beautiful soft texture once toasted. Last night we featured them as part of a vegan menu where we normally would have used a cashew cream we made a chest nut puree. Tonight we are looking at doing a candied version with a seared duck starter.

 

April 2012 108

Chestnuts

 

 

 

 

 

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Ezme

ezme

Credit – Crush Online magazine

 

With tomatoes still in season, why not try this refreshing tomato dish at the mezze table. Great vegan dish, we sometimes add little smoked paprika for a twist. It almost reminds me of tartare. I did a meze shoot last year with crush online with this beautiful fresh meze dish.

Ezme

Yield: 500g before strained

INGREDIENTS

6 large fully ripe tomatoes- (350g tomato flesh)
1 ea roasted red pepper seasoned (80g)
½ small red onion (30g)
1 spring onion
1-2 chili
Salt
1 tbsp chopped parsley (4g)
1 tbsp mint (4g)
20ml olive oil
10 ml lemon juice
Zest lemon (pinch)
10ml white wine vinegar
5ml tomato paste

METHOD
Skin tomatoes, by placing whole tomatoes in boiling water and refreshing in ice water.
Remove
Cut tomatoes into quarters and remove inner juice and seeds, chop the tomato as fine as possible, do the same with the peppers, onion, parsley and mint.
Place everything in a bowl and season. Allow to stand for 1 hour. I strain my salad before serving, but this is not necessary and it can be left as.

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Guanciale – Journey with chef “D”

IMG_9607

Guanciale curing

 

Guanciale

We are always looking for new and exciting suppliers and products. These two go hand and hand.

“The product is the only truth and the only star of the kitchen, not the cook, whose sole task is to enhance it and respect the truth” (Chapel/Ducasse)

Without a great supplier we will never have great products. These people essentially form part and is an extension of our kitchen team. As in my kitchen the most important philosophy and rule, is to respect the ingredient.

So last week we received three beautiful pig heads from Terra Madre, this always creates as stirs excitement. What are we going to make? Consensus was reached, Chef D will be making cheese head and with the cheeks for an extra special treat, Guanciale!

The first thing that comes to my mind is, Carbonara. The journey of this beautiful story and will be told over the next couple of weeks as Chef D looks and takes us through the process from start to finish, when we present our final dish at the Chef’s Table.

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Fresh Spinach Salad with green beans & cocktail tomatoes

Spinach salad

I love this salad because of the dressing, punched with garlic and chili. The acid in the dressing mainly comes from the tomato pulp. With tomatoes in season it is perfect lunch.

Yield: 4

INGREDIENTS

200g Spinach Baby Washed
140g Tomatoes Cocktail cut in half
50g Toasted whole almonds chopped
100g Green beans blanched whole and refreshed

80g feta

20g spring onion sliced

Dressing
½ clove garlic
8ea Tomatoes Cocktail
5ea Basil leaves
1 ea chili
½ tsp lemon zest
1 tbsp lemon juice
20 ml olive oil
Black pepper
Salt

METHOD

For the dressing grate garlic, chili, lemon zest and tomato on the finest grater, mixture should resemble a pulp mixture add basil, olive oil and lemon juice.
Season and adjust
Combine all salad ingredients and dress just before serving.

 

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Ceviche

Crush Rudi11

Ceviche

Ceviche Our banqueting chef Jaco returned from South America two years ago, with a couple of Peruvian culinary secrets, after doing a South African food promotion at the Belmond Miraflores Park Hotel in Lima. Now the ceviche has become a regular favourite with the right balance of salt, lime, chilli and coriander. In oasis we add a little fruit element like mango or litchi to emphasise summer eating even more. While in Planet, radish and avocado with the occasional corn is featured.

 

Basic recipe

250 ml lime juice

15g salt

1 small onion cut into brunoise

3 garlic cloves finely grated

2-3 red chilies deseed and chopped fine

Pinch Zest of lime

1 tsp chopped Coriander fresh

let it stand for 10-20 minutes strain and use

 

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Brinjal

brinjal

Brinjal

I love eating and it is because of all fond food memories that I continue to enjoy food above making or cooking it, no ingredient has left such a deep impression like this fruit. From early childhood memories, enjoying grandma Dennie’s brinjal breyani, I remember every little detail up to the table cloth in her small Berea flat. My first vegan meal with brinjal and peanuts at the Hare Krishna house in Hillbrow, the aubergine  chutney served with the Flying Boar Burger by Wynand van Rooyen. My first outside catering function where we served fried egg plants. Every time I make salad at home it ends up having brinjal in it, and my daughter loves me for this.

How can I forget, two years ago while travelling through Malaysia on the Eastern Oriental Express en route to Singapore, we had just passed the River Kwai when lunch was served, a fiery Thai chicken curry with the tiniest little brinjal (makhuea pro).

As a young executive chef one of my first gourmet wine evenings working at the Parktonian hotel in Braamfontein, I got this amazing recipe from Art Culinaire, a pressed vegetable terrine with layers of delicately cooked vegetables, each flavoured to perfection then brought together in one moment with grilled brinjal, slow roasted tomatoes, roasted peppers. It was so simple but at the same time it was complex.

Call them what you want…… they are amazing, my new favourite baked with miso, so unbelievable!

If eaten raw it has a bitter taste, but once cooked it becomes a vessel that works with so many applications absorbing and highlighting the richness, as Fortunato Mazzone makes his “parmigiana di melanzane”, fried and baked with tomato and Parmesan, this is a recipe that is worth killing for.

Moussaka, Ratatouille, Baba Ghanoush, İmam bayildi, Caponata. It is clear that it is an important part of any vegans and vegetarians diet and it is clear to see why. Even dried brinjal that is seasoned with vinegar, salt, coriander and pepper then dried to look like biltong sticks.

Greatest thing about a brinjal is that it is available all year round, original word brinjal derived from Portuguese name beringela. Derived from the Arabic term badinjan. The French transformed it to Aubergine. Called egg plant when introduced to Europe and America because of the common variety grown resembled hen’s egg.

So call it what you want melanzana, garden egg, patlican, brinjal, egg plant, aubergine, badnijan

Baba Ghanoush (Egg plant dip)

4 ea large Brinjal
2 tbsp parsley chopped
2 tbsp mint chopped or chiffonade
4 Garlic cloves roasted and 1 raw chopped crushed fine

30ml lemon juice and 1/2  tsp lemon zest
2 – 3tbsp / 20-30ml tahini
40 ml olive oil
salt and black pepper, to taste
2 tbsp sesame toasted
METHOD

Prick the aubergines with a fork.
Grill the aubergines on an open flame grill until charred. Brinjal will be soft. This will take a good 20 minutes.
Allow to cool and remove pulp and chop fine
Combine garlic, zest, lemon juice, tahini, olive oil and pepper.
Combine the flesh with garlic mixture, parsley and mint.
Adjust seasoning and serve.

If you prefer a more smokey Baba Ghanoush, slice brinjals into thick slices, season rub with olive oil then grill.

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